Sun Protection Actives & Actions

Of all the cosmetic or skin care sunscreen formulations applied to the skin, next to antioxidants, sun protection is without doubt the most important. Before we can even consider applying creams and lotions to reduce wrinkles, we must take steps to protect it from further damage.

The skins “built in” cellular protection systems gradually decline with age and the endogenous production of free radicals increase due to metabolic change. We know our environment also plays an important role in the formation of super oxide radicals, UV radiation, ionizing radiation and pollutants, all promote the formation of these radicals.

Broad Spectrum - All sun protection is not created equal, as various types of chemicals and compounds protect against different bands of UV radiation. We need to understand what the UV spectrum is and how it affects the skin, so that we can make more informed choices.

Recent studies have definitively established that UVAI is a causative factor in, photo ageing. It is also the portion of the UVR spectrum most often associated with photo sensitivities resulting from drugs, chemicals or disease.

  

What should a good Sun Protection Product be able to do?

• Offer broad spectrum protection from sun burn.
• Contain an oil soluble antioxidant to reduce oxidation stress.
• Offer protection to the skin barrier defence system.
• Exhibit an anti-ageing protection profile.
• Exhibit a vitamin replacement profile (vitamins A, C & E).
• Enhance the skins own sun protection systems.

A sun care product that just prevents sunburn is not enough to ensure the skin will be cared for and premature ageing prevented.

Many domestic retail cosmetics designed for daily use have some, but not all of the protection systems that skin needs to protect it from sunburn and oxidative stress. Skin treatment therapy and appearance medicine products are far superior, because they contain skin care and sun-protection profiles, which address all levels and dangers of sun exposure.

The discrepancy between sun protection effectiveness against sunburn and skin barrier defence protection has lead researchers to re-examine sun-protection strategies. Research is well advanced in laboratories around the world that formulate and supply beauty therapy products to our industry.

Sunburn induces oxidative stress and the resulting lipid per-oxidation will compound and lead to mitochondria DNA damage of the epidermal cells. Protection from UVR is vital. The goal is to find substances that directly protect and support epidermal and dermal cells, and this is called biochemical protection.

Instead of just using high SPF UVR screening materials that protect against erythema, they have included antioxidants, cell repair/protection, hydration/skin lipid support, and DNA repair agents to reduce cell damage.